Mexican and Japanese-Peruvian Nikkei. Yeah, read that again! 

It sounds like three cuisines had walked into a bar and decided to start a restaurant together, and I had to know what that looked like on a plate.

On a fine Tuesday evening, when the rain finally decided to take a break, I made my way to Selva, Delhi Aerocity’s new restaurant and cocktail bar. I had been curious about this rather intriguing newcomer for a while, particularly because my tryst with Latin American cuisine in Delhi had been limited. I arrived expecting a few surprises; I just wasn’t sure what form they would take.

And then there was the space. Designed by Renesa Architecture Design Interiors Studio, the space speaks of two distinct design worlds, one of ‘Selva’ and another ‘Selva Maya’, weaved through a single architectural narrative. 

For me, it was the first clue that Selva didn’t quite believe in keeping things in neat little boxes. Sleek black and gold, warm wood and earthy textures came together beneath sharp, contemporary lines, while soft music filled the room.

A Welcome Drink Tickled The Palate

As we settled in, tiny shot glasses appeared on the table alongside the menu. One sip, and my palate was wide awake. It was the ‘Gojira’, one of Selva’s popular drinks, named after Godzilla, as he was known in Japan. A bright mix of orange, lime and goji berry, it was citrusy, refreshing and quite possibly the perfect way to begin the evening.

As I flipped through the menu, the first thing that caught my attention was its cover, which said, “Every dish at Selva tells the story of culinary worlds coming together, creating bold flavours that feel both familiar and entirely new.” It sounded like quite the introduction, and I was curious to see how that story would unfold on the plate. Thankfully, Chef Vaibhav Bhargava was there to steer me through the menu.

Punchy Cocktails and Curious Bites Followed

We began with the ‘Salmon Verde’, where fresh salmon was topped with wasabi mayo and salsa, served on a crisp tostada. The richness of the salmon met the sharpness of wasabi and the freshness of the salsa, while the tostada brought in that much-needed crunch. It was a small plate, but it made quite an introduction.

Next came the ‘Lychee Ceviche’, Selva’s playful spin on the Peruvian classic. The sweetness of lychee met the bright acidity of citrus, resulting in a ceviche that felt familiar in form but pleasantly unexpected in flavour. And this was where I began to understand what Selva was trying to do. The menu placed considerable emphasis on raw Nikkei preparations, drawing from the Japanese-Peruvian tradition through citrus-cured ceviches in leche de tigre — the vibrant, spicy and citrusy marinade traditionally used in Peruvian ceviche — alongside delicately sliced tiraditos. The combination of Japanese finesse and Peruvian punch gave these dishes a distinct character and offered a refreshing departure from the Latin American food I had come to associate with Delhi. 

Alongside the food came two beautiful cocktails, or should I say, sexy? The ‘Viper’s Venom’ arrived topped with watermelon rind, with raw mango leche de tigre meeting Bombay Sapphire and white chocolate vermouth. Think of it as a ceviche-inspired dirty martini — savoury, umami-rich and surprisingly addictive — and it made quite the companion to the small bites.

Then came the ‘Butterfly Effect’, and the name seemed fitting. It was an absolutely gorgeous gin-based cocktail, layered with pisco sour, raspberry, cherry and a hint of peppercorn. Fruity, tart and with a little peppery intrigue, it was the sort of drink that looked innocent enough but had plenty going on beneath the surface!

From ‘Selva’ to ‘Selva Maya’

Taking a sip of the ‘Viper’s Venom’, I left my table and wandered deeper into the space, from Selva into Selva Maya — an intimate cocktail den named after the great Mesoamerican rainforest. It felt like stepping into a different world altogether, as the light softened, the ceilings curved inward and a sculptural circular bar took centre stage, becoming the heart of the room.

The design and lighting of the space drew inspiration from the Mesoamerican myth of the Sun God transforming into the Jaguar as day gave way to night. And the transition was quite literal — while Selva remained an all-day dining space, Selva Maya came alive only after dark, bringing with it an entirely different mood. If you really wanted to experience its magic, the bartender’s table was the place to be! Pull up a chair, settle in for a while and watch the cocktails come together.

As I sat there, a glass of ‘Fluffy Alpaca’ made its way to me! A playful take on the piña colada, it came topped with a generous cloud of tender coconut foam that added a soft, soothing finish to every sip. I also noticed a rather fun pattern. Many of the cocktails took their names from animals found across the Latin American landscape. Aptly titled ‘Animalique’, the bar menu declared, “Every drink has its spirit animal — choose yours wisely!”

Conversations Over The Main Course

Back at my table in Selva, I was ready to move on to the main course when Sarthak Sidana, the founder of Selva (who also has Underdoggs and Sere under his belt), stopped by to check if everything was going well. With his concepts spread across ten cities over the past decade, he seemed genuinely invested in how the evening was unfolding at my table — and, naturally, had a few recommendations to share.

Indeed, choosing wisely here might be harder than it sounds.

He insisted that I try the ‘Pescada’, crispy fried John Dory with avocado cream and smoked jalapeño, and the ‘Smoked Duck Salad’, “if you must”! I did, and my taste buds were rather grateful that I listened. The Pescada arrived crisp on the outside and delicate within, with the creamy avocado and smoky jalapeño adding layers of richness and heat. The carefully portioned duck, meanwhile, paired beautifully with the dressing and fresh vegetables. Both dishes were quite dapper, if I may say so, and disappeared rather quickly.

Next came the ‘Nori Tacos’, in three varieties: avocado guac, tuna tartare and salmon tartare. The avocado version was packed with perfectly balanced guacamole tucked inside crisp nori sheets, while the tuna and salmon tartares brought their own delicate textures and freshness. Picking a favourite was a tough call, so I wisely decided not to — I devoured all three before the debate could begin.

By now, I was convinced that Mexican and Japanese-Peruvian Nikkei could go remarkably well hand in hand. Sarthak, however, had a more thoughtful explanation for this culinary meeting of worlds. “Selva is a culmination of our deep-rooted love & years spent travelling, researching and understanding cuisines & cultures across Mexico, Peru, Japan and beyond. We wanted to challenge the way Mexican & Nikkei cuisine is understood in India,” he added.

And the plates kept arriving. The ‘Salmon Avocado Tlayuda’, essentially a cold pizza, was a delightful surprise — creamy, velvety and generously topped with caviar, it managed to feel appetising. It was the kind of dish that made conversation pause for a moment, only because everyone was busy eating, and it vanished in minutes.

The ‘Peruvian Grilled Chicken’ followed, bringing a little more fire to the table. Juicy, perfectly spiced and accompanied by a generous burst of fresh vegetables, it had just the right balance of heat and freshness. By then, my taste buds were no longer asking questions about this unusual Mexican-Nikkei-Peruvian marriage. They had clearly made up their minds!

Drawing A Line With The Desserts

Two and a half hours had flown by, keeping all my senses busy, and by the time dessert arrived, I was quite ready to call it a day. My stomach had drawn the line; my curiosity, however, had other plans.

Caught between the ‘Tres Leches’ and ‘Matcha Tiramisu’, I was clearly taking my time when Chef Vaibhav suggested I try the ‘Spiced Chocolate Cake’ instead. Now, that raised another question — how exactly did one spice a chocolate cake?

The answer arrived as a beautifully soft, rich piece of chocolate cake, with subtle notes of star anise, cinnamon and black pepper woven through each bite. Served alongside vanilla ice cream, the gentle warmth of the spices cut through the richness of the chocolate beautifully. My taste buds, despite my earlier declaration of surrender, were clearly not ready to leave.

And then came the ‘Churros’. “It’s one of our bestsellers,” Chef Vaibhav said, as he placed a plate in front of me, accompanied by two tiny bowls of chocolate ganache and salted caramel as dips. By then, I had stopped pretending I was done. I took one last bite, dipped one last churro, and quietly thanked the dessert gods!

Getting There:

Address: Worldmark 4, Asset Area No. LP-1B-04, Aerocity, New Delhi 110037.

Cost for 2: INR 4,500 ++ (without alcohol), INR 6,000 (with alcohol)