It’s tempting to imagine Lanna art inside your villa in Krabi. For the uninitiated, Lanna art refers to the traditional painting and decorative vocabulary of the historic Lanna Kingdom, which flourished across Northern Thailand from the 13th to the 18th century. At the villa, this aesthetic became part of the architecture; Lanna paintings ran between walls, shutters, and doors, creating a visual divide between spaces. While the interiors operate on a distinctly sheer scale of double-height ceilings and forms, that's intimate, contemplative, and personal; outside, the landscape takes over. Each villa opens onto a decked garden and private pool, bringing the tropical environment almost within reach. Beyond it, the Andaman Sea stretches toward a procession of limestone mountains rising from the water. The view commands a constant, hypnotic presence.
From the main infinity pool and manicured lawn, the karst formations frame the horizon. But the best vantage point is reserved for the Sunset Bar. As the sun begins its descent, the limestone cliffs turn into silhouettes, appearing almost like a lost world emerging from the sea. This is Phulay Bay, the first Ritz-Carlton Reserve and one of just four in the Asia-Pacific region. The ‘Reserve’ concept was created around the idea of secluded, remote properties set within private landscapes, where the hotel becomes an unhotel-like sanctuary, not imposed upon nature but designed as an extension of it. It is the kind of exclusive retreat that quietly steals your excursion plans, parks you amid pristine nature and convinces you, quite convincingly, that there is nowhere else you’d rather be.
For me, it was a calling of those limestone cliffs.
Krabi’s dramatic karst landscape was shaped over geological time from limestone deposited in ancient tropical seas. The formations are far older than the Himalayas, which began rising roughly 50 million years ago, and their sheer scale gives the landscape an almost primordial quality. Watching the karst ridgelines from the Sunset Bar, I began to imagine what might lie beyond them: dense, dewy jungle and a wilderness that seems to belong to another geological age. The views were cinematic, leaving you thinking: what if there is a prehistoric wonderland unfolding beyond the sea? Over four days of my kayaking excursions in Krabi, I discovered that I wasn’t far from the truth.
Architecture Acting As An Extension Of The Land
I walked across a pathway of precisely placed stepping stones set over still water, arriving at an island crowned by a magnificent pitched-roof Thai pavilion, its edges rimmed with thousands of gently flickering candles. This is ‘Sala Srichan’, an architectural expression of Thailand at its most poetic, designed as a welcome venue.
Designed by acclaimed Thai architect Lek Bunnag, the entrance is framed by 20-foot-high aubergine walls softened by hedges of indigenous trees. From the outside, it creates an immediate sense of intrigue; step through, and the mood shifts to one of profound stillness. On the way to the villa, the grounds unfold like a landscape painting. Undulating terrain mimics valleys, crossed by delicate footbridges, while a waterway meanders through the property like a natural stream. Stone-clad walls are punctuated by gargoyles that spill water; at times, Chinese moon gates appear, while certain pathways disappear behind towering walls, only to reappear through keyhole-shaped doorways—a nod to Moroccan architecture. The exterior is an elegant interplay of Thai and Moroccan influences, reflecting Bunnag’s instinct for drawing from architectural traditions far beyond his own. Here, architecture and nature seem to dissolve into one another.
A private butler is assigned at check-in, which takes place inside the villa rather than at a conventional reception desk, making the arrival feel unusually intimate. The Reserve Pool Villa of Phulay Bay Ritz-Carlton sprawls around a garden, verandah and private pool. The verandah welcomes you with a generous daybed, and back shutters adorned with Lanna art. There is something wonderfully excessive about the scale of the villa for two: an oversized bed flanked by large side lamps, generous dressing chambers leading into a walk-in closet, twin flower-shaped basins, an outdoor shower and a sunken indoor bath that feels almost architectural in its own right. Even the material palette refuses to be ordinary. Terrazzo finishes, crafted by local artisans, flow across the bathtub, floors and walls, creating a seamless tactile continuity. Through the glass facades, natural light moves gently across the interiors, changing the mood as the day progresses.
Outside, the private garden becomes a secluded pocket of green, centred around a pool that is equally inviting for a languid swim or a sundowner. At once, it feels like a private sanctuary designed for unhurried days. Yet the views have a way of stirring the opposite impulse: the distant limestone cliffs draw the eye towards the sea, leaving you with an irresistible urge to sail into its waters and discover what lies beyond.
Island Excursions To Hong Island And Klong Root
Every morning, a longtail boat departs from Phulay Bay for Hong Island. The 25-minute journey was an adventure in itself, I thought as the longtail boat rose and plunged in the swell, haloed with spray, while limestone cliffs closed in on either side. “Some days the sea is rough, but otherwise it is calm,” our excursion guide told us. He further added that dolphins swim by and, at times, the whale shark glides through these waters. A pulse of adrenaline shot through me. We arrive at a floating pier, the island’s only point of entry, and follow a sandy trail marked by a sign which says, ‘Than Bok Khorani National Park’. From here, the Hong Island Nature Trail unfolds for 700 metres and the path threads between towering karst formations and dense rainforest, with the occasional mountain crab or water monitor lizard appearing along the way, entirely indifferent to passing visitors. Eventually, the forest opens onto a secluded stretch of sand, tucked into the folds of the karst landscape. It is the sort of beach that invites you to slow down: a quiet spot for snorkelling, a picnic, or simply an hour spent doing nothing beside the sea.
But the real spectacle unfolds on the water. Reached by boat, Hong Lagoon reveals itself through a narrow opening between towering limestone cliffs, as though the mountains have parted just enough to let you through. As the boat slips into the passage, the landscape suddenly opens into a hidden world of still turquoise waters, sheer rock faces and a secluded shoreline, tucked away from the sea beyond.
The next few days unfolded on island-sailing excursions. We glided by longtail boat towards the limestone cliffs of Khao Kanap Nam, stopping along the way for photographs as the landscape began to feel like a Jurassic Park fantasy, towering rock formations rising from the sea, and water stretching endlessly around us.
Our next stop was Koh Klang, a traditional fishing village where, en route, I saw fishermen who appeared almost half-submerged in the water, casting their nets in the quiet rhythm of island life.
We then followed the Jurassic Paradise trail of Thailand, beginning at the secluded shores of Pak Bia, an idyllic stretch of sand that, for a while, felt entirely ours. At Klong Root, also known as Mirror Lake, we kayaked through a freshwater lagoon shaded by dense forest. Gnarled vines framed the water while lotus pods floated along the surface, creating a scene so cinematic it seemed almost designed for the screen. It was easy to imagine why this lush green pocket was chosen as a setting for ‘Jurassic World: Rebirth’.
The Sunset Hour Is All About Dining With Views
Evenings at Phulay Bay have their own kind of magic. The sky moves from purple and pink to orange and gold, while the gentle murmur of waves follows you along the shore. Every sunset seems to leave its own imprint. That evening, dinner was at Sri Trang, helmed by Chef Aong, whose menu draws on treasured Southern Thai recipes passed down from grandmother to mother, and now to him. We began with ‘Yum Som O Goong’, a pomelo and prawn salad layered with roasted coconut, crisp fried shallots and ground peanuts, finished with a coconut-chilli dressing. Then came ‘Tom Som Pla’, a spicy-sour sea bass soup fragrant with shallots, kaffir lime, chilli and lemongrass. The favourite of the evening was ‘Khao Pad Khapi’, a deeply savoury shrimp-paste fried rice served with green mango, shallots and braised pork belly, alongside a Thai omelette. The pleasure was in the ritual: everything was mixed into the rice, allowing each ingredient to bring its own texture and flavour. Another standout was ‘Sen Mee Kaeng Pu’, a Southern Thai yellow curry with fresh Andaman blue crab, kaffir lime leaves, basil and betel leaves, served with vermicelli noodles and garlic oil. By the time dessert arrived, we were, quite happily, full to the brim—and had to let it pass.
Taking Back The Thai Wellness Wisdom
This time in Thailand, adventure was my focus. I had come to follow the call of limestone cliffs and marine parks, leaving little time for spa therapies. Still, I made room for a private session with Radhika Khemka, the Reserve Yogi and Wellness Expert, for a personalized wellness consultation. At Ritz-Carlton Phulay Bay, wellness begins with a one-on-one consultation designed to understand each guest’s intentions, health goals, and elemental balance through Ayurvedic principles and chakra analysis. From there, the experience is tailored to the individual, drawing on Thai wisdom, Indian classical yoga, Ayurveda, and nutritional science.
“The practices are structured across the five energetic layers, or Pancha Kosha Chikitsa,” Radhika tells me, “from physical movement and breathwork to mental clarity, intuitive wisdom, and deep meditative bliss.” The ‘Signature Thai Wisdom Birthday Ritual’ particularly caught my attention. Radhika explains that, according to an ancient Thai belief, a birthday carries its own planetary essence and signature colour. The 90-minute ritual brings together a diagnostic consultation, a personalized harmonic sound bath tuned to the guest’s energy centre, bespoke movement, and grounding meditation.
On select evenings, the sound bath moves outdoors to Sala Srichan, where non-essential lights are switched off and the night sky becomes part of the experience. Guests gather for ‘Starlight Serenity’, a meditative sound bath led by Radhika beneath the stars. It is an experience built around stillness, but also a quiet reminder that conscious luxury can mean simply turning down the lights and letting nature take over.
Endings With Adventure, Timeless Luxury And Care
On our last evening, Fern from the marketing team, who had thoughtfully designed my itinerary, introduced me to a new experience the resort is preparing to launch: ‘Mist and Morning’. Vidya Sagar, the General Manager, who has now moved to their Kyoto property, filled me in. “There are still so many places in Krabi that one hasn’t seen before. We are finding them for you to explore.” As the first light of day touches the still waters of Ban Nong Thalay, a freshwater lake, a private longtail boat glides across the mist-covered surface, revealing a quieter side of Krabi. Distant mountains emerge through the morning haze, while the boat moves gently towards the haze. Breakfast is served on board—a traditional Thai spread of savoury delicacies, freshly brewed coffee and fragrant Thai tea from Chiang Mai. Accompanied by a local boatman and the tranquility of the lake, the experience is designed around slow travel. I was mesmerised just hearing about it.
Back at our villa, our personal butler, Aea, had left a handwritten note telling me she had arranged a bubble bath in the sunken bath chamber, along with a bottle of prosecco for us to enjoy. It was a simple, thoughtful gesture that brought instant smiles. Perhaps that is what ‘Reserve Service’ is ultimately about, not grand, glitzy displays of luxury, but an almost intuitive level of care, where the smallest details make a place begin to feel like home. And somewhere between being looked after and discovering places you never knew existed, you find yourself already thinking about returning.
The next morning, I set out to discover a little-known side of Krabi for myself: Ban Nong Thalay.