It is curd rice. Comforting, familiar and served in liquid form. On the cocktail menu, it goes as a ‘savoury liquid care package’ : vodka steeped with toasted rice, mustard, curry leaves and saline. A sip, and the ‘Southern Storm’ will remind you of the comfort of curd rice.

‘Southern Storm’ is just one of the playful drinks based on feelings (or ‘mood’) at Bar Stormy; its mood marker is homesickness. The 75-seater bar in Hyderabad’s Financial District sits on the fourth floor of a building containing other dining spots. The new bar comes from the stable of industry veterans, Minakshi Singh and Yangdup Lama – known for their bars like Sidecar, Cocktails & Dreams Speakeasy, The Brook, and The Old House in Kathmandu. This is their first venture outside of Delhi in India. It is a collaboration with Kishore Pallamreddy, tech entrepreneur and owner of Red Rhino Brewing.

Hyderabad has always been the place most associated with biryani (and rightly so). In the last few years, there’s been a slow shift towards introducing new and innovative dining and drinking destinations. Bar Stormy is part of that growing movement. “Simply put, it is a great neighbourhood bar that will give people access to conversation, cocktails, culture and community in one space,” says Singh.

It is the artwork that first catches the eye on entering the 2,800 sq. ft, 75-seater Bar Stormy. A small balcony and smoking area that looks out onto the upcoming high-rises and night lights of the city. The interiors are done up in warm wood tones, allowing the art on the walls to shine – fun murals featuring artists from St+Art India and Guerrilla Art & Design. Here too, the focus is on the city, depicted through oversized comic-book-style figures — “the people of Hyderabad” — with speech bubbles that mix Telugu and English: Plan Ledu (no plan), or Scene ledu... Vibe undi (no scene, just vibe). The young, fun theme carries on to the washroom areas too – of note is a sign saying ‘Do not disturb, Already Disturbed’. A public notice announcement reminds me of the ones in old Irani cafés in Mumbai, telling you ‘no sleeping in the toilet’, ‘no combing hair’ and ‘no farting’ but all genders are welcome. 

A Drinks Programme That is Dark, Stormy and Moody

It’s a moody beverage programme at Bar Stormy. There are drinks based on a ‘mood meter’, hit drinks from their other ventures, and, to pay tribute to the name, four variations of ‘Dark & Stormy’.

The star, though, are the drinks based on mood, like the aforementioned ‘Southern Storm’. And, you will find a touch of Hyderabad in most of them. The ‘Stormy Samba’ is a drink that mimics the popular Osmania biscuit, with butter-washed bourbon and cardamom. ‘Stormy Hot Mess’ is my pick, because of the name, and the way peanut butter and guava come together to create a well-balanced drink.

The ‘Cilantro', a special on the sidecar menu, also impresses: a gorgeous blend of tomato, coriander, chilli, mango and tequila. This team does savoury cocktails well.

Creating A Bartender’s Bar

The highlight of Bar Stormy is Yang’s Bar. Simply put, it is the bar counter, designed by Lama. The industry veteran relies on his three decades of experience behind the bar to create a bar counter that is intelligent, ergonomic and neat. “In hospitality, we always talk about how to lend that warmth to a guest. How do I make them comfortable? It is only possible if I am comfortable in my own space,” says Lama. “When the bar is happy, the drinks will always be nice.”

Spanning 19 feet, the bar was fabricated in China and made from matte-finish stainless steel. It is designed so that the bartender and the guest are on the same footing, making for easier communication. There are three cocktail stations, each of which have their own freezer and chiller. Everything else: garnish, ice, glasses is at arms’ length. “This makes it a cakewalk for a bartender: everything is one step left or right. You don’t need to move away from your station. If the bartender is comfortable, the guest feels comfortable too”, says Lama.

The thickness of the ice chest helps with insulation. There’s a small garbage bin to collect waste, near a sink that contains a shaker cleaner, and taps serving regular water and RO.

In an efficient bar, Lama adds, a drink should come to you in under ten minutes. Behind the open back bar is the prep room, lined with bottles, ferments, mixers and other knickknacks — meant to be conversation starters and also, a peek behind the curtains. “We’ve taken away the curtain for people to see what really goes on behind the bar in totality and go ahead and ask questions,” says Singh.

Bar Bites And Sharing Plates That Offer A Taste Of The City

Chef Abhishek Halder’s food is a true taste of the city, bold and spicy and yet, addictive. “Hyderabad has an incredibly strong food identity. The spice and depth of flavour are the first things that come to mind,” he says, confessing to being inspired by ingredients like curry leaf, podi, green chilli, pepper masala and kheema. “Rather than recreate dishes that the city already does so well, I wanted to reinterpret those familiar flavours through a more global lens. The idea was to take international bar food and pair it with the flavours of home.”

The ethos comes across in most of his dishes. The first dish is so desi it has everyone at the table in raptures: a simple ‘Wai Wai Bhel’. Serving it as a bhel makes it familiar and addictive. An ‘Imli & Tuna Crudo’ where the bright acidity of tamarind highlights the Peruvian-style ceviche. A ‘Mutton Lukhmi Phyllo Pie’ takes that crispy mince-filled snack but gives it a lighter phyllo pastry and filling of rich bone marrow sauce. Small anchovies are deep-fried till crisp and gently paired with green chilli aioli and a bright raw mango mint salad in ‘Karivepaku Catch’. The highlight for me is the ‘Bone Marrow Nihari Feast’ – true to its name, it has slow-cooked mutton in a gently flavoured gravy paired with a soft saffron bun (as light as Shokupan). At the end comes a warm, alcohol-soaked ‘Ragi Sticky Toffee Pudding’ that is earthy, doused in sticky toffee and caramel. 

“The spirit of the menu is familiar flavours, presented in unexpected ways. But beyond the individual dishes, it's food for the middle of the table: enjoyed over long conversations and with another round of drinks,” says Halder.

A New Beginning In The South

Bar Stormy is a fun new addition to Hyderabad’s growing hospitality scene. There’s a Yangdup Lama-designed bar to admire. There are art murals that showcase some Hyderabadi slang. There is food, meant for sharing, and offering a touch of local flavours with global techniques. There are exciting drinks, and the chance to get a glimpse of what goes on behind the scenes of creating a drink. It’s a space that encourages sharing and conversation.  

“A great bar is not about drinks or food. It is about how socially connected one can be…a great bar is a social space,” says Lama.